This time of the year is prime for watermelons in all parts of the country. A lot of heat and enough moisture for rapid growth makes for a great tasting watermelon. Along with that comes some added benefits.
Watermelon is 92% water. But look what you get in the other 8%! Watermelon provides more lycopene than any other fruit or vegetable. Lycopene is a cancer preventing antioxidant. Along with this added benefit it is also a great source for vitamins A, B6, and C.
I was out hunting mushrooms and came across some ripe wild strawberries. They are so good but also so small. They are no match for the present day strawberry plants we have available today.
If you have wanted to start a strawberry bed but missed your opportunity this past spring. Get your garden area for the strawberries planed out for next spring. You can usually get a very good price on plants during a fall sale. The nursery you order them from will ship them to you at the proper planting time early next spring.
A strawberry bed can take many forms. If you don’t have a lot of space available you can make a strawberry pyramid with as little as 6 feet of ground. Or you can plant them in rows or hills.
Plant your berries in an area that has a good exposure to the sun. Try to avoid low spots. Strawberries need to be planted in well drained soil. Low spots also encourage the chances of early frost damage.
If you have the room planting on raised beds is usually a good option.
Test your soil- strawberries require a ph of 5.8 to 6.5. If you need to change the soil ph this fall is a good time to do it.
In the spring when you are ready to plant add one bushel of organic matter and 4 cups of 5-10-10 fertilizer for every 25 feet of growing area.
Start your strawberry patch with good virus free plants. These are usually sold in bundles of 25. One or 2 bundles will usually give you a very good start. Choose a variety that is good for your growing area. If you live in zone 4 you want to choose varieties that will avoid a late frost. Better to have berries a little later in the season then no berries at all.
Plant as early in the spring as you can. Preferably on a cloudy day to keep the sun from damaging your new plants. If that’s not possible plant them in the evening. Start soaking the roots in water a couple hours before you start planting them. The roots should be trimmed to 4 or 5 inches. I take a pair of scissors into the garden with me to do the trimming as I am planting. Space the plants about a foot apart with the crown base at ground level. Water them very well after planting.
Keep your new strawberry bed as weed free as possible. Mulching berries is always a good idea. It will help keep the weeds down and the moisture in. Pinch off most of the blossoms the 1st year. This will allow the plant to put most of its energy into developing a good root system and some runners to increase the bed size. I like to leave enough blossoms to at least get a taste.
In the fall cover your patch with a layer of mulch to give them winter protection. 6 inches of hay or straw works very well. If you live in an area that gets heavy snow fall like I do that helps even more. I hardly ever loose plants to winter damage. With the right care the following summer you will have that awesome berry patch you always wanted.
After a long cold winter here in Upper Michigan it has carried on into the summer. I don’t think we have had one day above 85 degrees and many days 70 or lower with very cold nights. We have had plenty of moisture so most of my vegetable plants are doing very well. But it does not do me a lot of good to grow a very nice looking plant if it doesn’t produce any vegetables. Tomato plants need warm weather for pollination. Temperatures lower than 55 degrees or over 104 will interfere greatly with the pollinating process. Blossom set has come to my rescue more than once during this type of growing season. Bonide claims it increases yields and speeds harvest. Which makes sense. If the blossoms set quicker your vegetable plants will produce earlier. I use this mainly on my tomato plants but Bonite claims it also works on beans, cucumbers, squash and many others. This is a good product. If you are having problems with pollination give it a try.
It is a good idea to test your soil in an existing garden every 2 to 3 years. Don’t wait till you start having problems. By doing regular testing you can stay on top of it. Especially soil ph. Even if you have a good fertilization technique, the ph still can change.
I don’t think I can even express how important this is. I have seen gardens that year after year would hardly produce anything changed into a absolute wonder- producing an over abundance of vegetables in one year just from changing the soil ph.
If you are planting a new area this is a must. It will tell you what the soil needs, the ph, and exactly what type of soil you are dealing with.
Home soil test kits work well. But if you don’t what to do the math and want a professional recommendation have it done though your local agricultural extension agency. Let them know what you are planting, fruit trees, vegetable garden or berry patch, if berries let them know what kind. The report you receive back from them will tell you exactly what your soil needs. It will also make recommendations for commercial and organic fertilizers. It is usually well worth what they charge.
If you are planting a good size garden you will want to take your samples from several locations. Use a garden thrall and dig down about 6 inches. Take a swipe down the side of the hole going the full depth and place the soil in a clean pail. Be sure you get a sample the whole 6 inch depth of the whole. Depending on the size of the garden do this 5 or 6 times in different locations. Place all your soil samples in a clean bucked and mix them together thoroughly with your garden thrall. Don’t use your hands. After you are done transfer the soil to a clean plastic bag. Their you have it, done. Follow the directions that came with you soil test kit to test it or send it to you agricultural extension agency for testing.
For the purpose of this article being mainly on how to test the soil I will just briefly touch on the results you can expect.
The first thing you want to look at in your soil test results is ph. This number runs from zero to 14. Neutral is considered 7. Vegetable gardens require a soil ph of 6 to 6.8. The fertilizers perform best at this level. Anything above 7 would be considered sweet or alkaline. Anything below 7 would be acidic.
To lower soil ph agricultural sulfur is usually recommended. To raise soil ph lime is used. Follow the recommendations from your extension agency or from the instructions that came with your test kit.
Nitrogen-Be careful of this one. Follow the recommendations closely. To much can burn your seeds and your plants. It can also create a big plant and no vegetables. But it is very necessary. A sign of nitrogen deficiency would be, pale green leaves, leaves turning yellow or just plain slow growth in leaf crops like lettuce and spinach.
Phosphorus- Great for root crops. Also necessary for good root development in all plants. Many times a phosphorus deficiency will show up as purple leaves toward the lower part of the plant.
Potassium- Necessary for healthy plant growth. If you garden just plain isn’t doing well this could be a sign of potassium deficiency.
Well their you have it- those are the main three along with the soil ph.
So maybe not so perfect, but it is nice to dream.
You have done everything right. You are a month into the growing season and most all your vegetable plants look great. As the plants grow larger more food will help keep them strong and healthy. Some vegetable plants require more food than others. Be careful though not to over fertilize- a little less is better than to much. I have listed below what I go by for side dressing each vegetable plant. Along with some gardening tips on how to apply the fertilizer.
Work the fertilizer in around the plant. Mainly what you want to do is cover it enough so when you water or when it rains it doesn’t splash up burning the plant.
Tomatoes
1 to 2 tablespoons fertilizer 10-10-10 or equivalent for each plant.
Apply when you see the first blossoms start to appear.
If the leaves start to turn a yellowish color-this could be a sign of not enough nitrogen.
Corn
It’s a good idea to side dress the corn a couple of times during the season.
Once when it is about knee high and then again when it starts to tassel and form silk on the stalks.
1 tablespoons fertilizer 10-10-10 or equivalent for each plant or about 3 cups per 25 foot row.
Zucchini Squash
Side-Dress when they start to blossom
1 to 2 tablespoons fertilizer 10-10-10 or equivalent for each plant.
Beans
Don’t usually require any.
Potatoes
Side dress potatoes just before you hill them. That way the soil from hilling will cover the fertilizer.
1 tablespoons fertilizer 10-10-10 or equivalent for each plant or about 3 cups per 25 foot row.
Broccoli
Apply the side dressing when the head starts to form.
1 to 2 tablespoons fertilizer 10-10-10 or equivalent for each plant.
Cauliflower
When the plants are good size just before they start to head.
1 to 2 tablespoons fertilizer 10-10-10 or equivalent for each plant.
Cabbage
Side-Dress just before the head starts to form.
1 to 2 tablespoons fertilizer 10-10-10 or equivalent for each plant.
Brussels
Side dress when sprouts start to form.
1 to 2 tablespoons fertilizer 10-10-10 or equivalent for each plant.
Vine crops-melons, winter squash, pumpkins and cucumbers. Side Dress the plants just before they start to run.
1 to 2 tablespoons fertilizer 10-10-10 or equivalent for each plant.
If you live in the north country and grow garlic you are probably looking forward to harvesting it around the middle of July. There is nothing like fresh garlic to sauté and use in your favorite recipes.
If you are new to planting garlic in your vegetable garden it is not difficult. In the north country this is usually a fall planting around the end of September to the middle of October. So now is a good time to be doing your planning. You can use garlic from a grocery store or order whatever variety suites you best . Many mail order companies will ship your bulbs in the fall right around planting time for your area.
Plant regular size garlic 3 to 4 inches apart. For elephant garlic you should give them little more room- about 6 inches should do the trick. Plant them in a wide row. Push the clove pointed end up into the ground to just below the surface. Water them good and cover your patch with mulch to protect them over the winter.
In the spring give them a side dressing of fertilizer. About mid summer when the garlic tops fall over and die, pull up the bulbs. Let them dry in the sun for a few days. You can braid the tops or store them in mesh bags.
My Mother plants some rows of vegetables next to a fence. I have a real tough time getting tight enough along the fence with my regular tiller. Now I run the regular tiller along the fence then finish it of with the Mantis. Because of it size its gets into those really tight areas. It comes with a great 1 year money back guarantee.
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When I first started gardening my soil was 98% sugar sand. I can remember thinking what kind of a vegetable garden is this going to be? To my surprise with some work it grew some of the nicest squash and melons I had ever tasted.
Unfortunately we cant always choose the type of soil we have. The gardening area I plant in now started out to be about 98% clay with very little organic matter. I soon learned I much preferred the sandy soil. Though the years besides tilling in the garden scraps I have also added additional organic matter which has improved the soil tremendously. So I guess the point here is you do have some control.
Getting back to the sandy soil.
When you were a kid if you ever built castles in the sand or played in a sand box-that is sandy soil. As far as I am concerned here in Upper Michigan it doesn’t get any better than that. We have a short growing season so I like to start planting as early as possible. In the spring the sand drains very fast from the melting snow and can be worked as early as the middle of April. It also absorbs heat very quickly. The biggest downfall to sand is watering. It does have to be watered a little more frequently during dry periods. Adding organic mater or green manure crops helps a lot. The sand gets so hot on the surface you cant walk on it bare foot-great for growing melons .
Clay Soil
Slippery stuff. Usually good soil but hard to work with when its wet. I have tried adding sand to it and after some time the sand just disappears to no where land. It is almost impossible to work in early spring, just too wet. I have added leaves, corncobs and tilled in some other organic mater. It has helped a lot by keeping the soil broken up. Using raised beds works well for vegetables or berries that need good drainages and also helps raise the soil temperature a little bit. One big advantage with clay soil is the watering. I have found if I plant closer together in the clay the shade from the neighboring plant will help keep the ground moist during a dry spell. It just does not dry out as fast as sand.
Loam Soil
High in organic mater and fertile, also drains well-said to be the best.
No mater what soil type you have when you are done harvesting a row in your vegetable garden- till the rest of the plant into the garden- it is a great source of organic mater.
This is a problem I have dealt with all of my gardening life. If you live in an area with a large deer population then you know this problem can be huge. There is nothing more disappointing then to have a very nice garden full of vegetables and have it wiped out or destroyed in one night.
What works and what doesn’t. I can give you some ideas that will help- but nothing outside of a 12 foot high fence seems to be iron clad.
I will start with my favorite.
Electric fences seem to work the best for me. They are not real expensive to set up and if done right work very well. You can purchase fence chargers that plug into your household current. If your garden is located in an area with no electricity you can also buy solar and battery powered units.
Follow the manufacturers instructions for setting up your charger.
Keep the fence wire close to the ground, about 18 inches. This seems to low but it is not. You want the deer to walk into the fence. Not to walk up to it and jump it.
I can remember the first time I set one of these up. The deer some how managed to get inside. They must of bummed the fence after getting in. You could see from their hoof prints where they had jumped and hit the ground hard sending the dirt flying- on their way out. Knocking part of the fence down in the process. I didn’t see a deer for the rest of that summer.
Take your fence down in the fall. Wrap your wire up. You don’t want the deer to get use to it being their. You want to catch them by surprise in the spring when you get the fence operating again.
So you have some smart deer and they keep getting though your fence. Try This-my wife says it is mean- But it works great!
Use aluminum foil and make some envelops or pockets out of them. Put salt in the pockets and hang them on your fence. A wet tongue, salt and electricity don’t mix very well. Chances are once the deer get a taste of this you wont have trouble again with them for the rest of the summer.
Sprays
I have used sprays with some success. When I first applied them they seemed to work really well. The problem was every time it rained I had to spray again. If you have a wet summer this can get very expensive. If you have a small garden this may be a good option. Another thing I don’t like about the sprays is that it is being applied to a vegetable garden. That you plan on eating.
Deodorant Soap
Most articles I have read on this suggest dial soap. I have used both dial and the store brand deodorant soaps. Their seems to be no difference except the store brand is a lot cheaper. I cut a bar into quarters, wrap it in a piece of nylon stocking -then hang it in my fruit trees. I have good luck with this. It does not stop the deer completely but if they do damage the tree it is usually not very severe. I also use this on my blueberry bushes
Delicious blueberries in the summer-beautiful red ornamental leaves in the fall.
To grow high bush blueberries in zone four at one time was almost impossible. Though the years the development of new varieties has made it very possible. I guess for the most part it is kind of an in-between.
The plants don’t get as tall but still produce a large abundance of fruit. The blueberries are of good size and quality. If you are in zone 4 but close to one of the great lakes( with in 10 miles ) you can probably get buy with one of the more hardy zone 5 varieties. Try to avoid low areas where frost pockets could form.
You can plant them in the spring or fall. If you plant them in the fall you might be able to harvest some berries the following summer.
In most cases you will need to plant two different varieties for pollination. There are a few blueberry plants that are self pollinating -Elliott, Chandler and Blue Gold are a few of the most popular.
When choosing a planting site keep in mind Blueberry plants are very brittle. Try to plant them where they are out of the way of children and pets. The branches break very easily.
Do yourself a favor and give them lots of room. Space the plants 5 to 7 feet apart. If I am planting more than one row , I will space the row 7 feet.
Small plant-big hole. Dig your hole about the size of a bushel basket.
Blueberries need acid soil in a range from 4.5 to 5. If your soil is not acidic enough mix 50% sphagnum peat moss with the soil you are going to be returning to the planting hole. After the blue berry is planted you can add one cup of agricultural sulfur per plant. Work it gently into the surface of the soil to keep the rain from washing it away. This will slowly dissolve and help hold the ph down.
Plant the blue berry plant so the roots are one to two inches below the surface. And give them a good watering.
It is a good idea to mulch your plants to keep the soil moist an help hold the weeds down. I have tried several different kinds of mulches. I have a large number of plants so it has become a challenge. Old news papers work very well. I lay down several layers and place rocks on top in different places to hold them down. If you don’t mind using plastic, black plastic also works very well. For a smaller number of plants you have a lot of choices. Pine needles work well and also add some acid to the soil. Sawdust also works good but you have to keep and eye on it. As the wood rots it will rob some of the nitrogen from the soil so you might have to add some additional fertilizer.
Four weeks after planting sprinkle about 1 ounce of 20-0-10+5 (N-P-K-Mg) or a similar analysis fertilizer within 12 to 18 inches of each plant, but not directly on the crown or stems.
Go easy on the fertilizer. Many times blueberries don’t need much.
As far as varieties I have had good success with Blueray, Northland, Patriot and Elliot.
